Though one does not instantly think of James Brown upon entering Hombre del Mundo (Man's World), your gut might ache like one of his battered wives after you finish your meal. The portions are enormous, which means at least they got half of the Tex-Mex formula right. The ambience might have boarded a flight for Austin, complete with sombreros and Tejano music, but this restaurant got hijacked to Santa Fe instead. Pyschedelic Santa Fe. Which wouldn't really matter if the food was good. The menu is teeming with enchiladas, burritos, tacos, and quesadillas, all of which come with a grilled sunburst of warm colors, like a 1969 Fender Stratocaster, but unfortunately tastes like a Strat that was made in Mexico.

Tex Mex is a gustatory fusion of American gluttony and Mexican muttony. Its borders are marked with the crisp pikes of corn tortilla chips, not the dry rye bread bowl imprisoning my bean soup. Which just goes to show, stick to what you know. Perhaps there's a quaint little bistro in South Texas offering traditional Czech goulash and borscht with equal imprecision. Still it'd be easier to pay for an overpriced Pilsner Urquell there than a $10 Corona here. After it's all said and done, the experience was akin to eating at T.G.I.Friday's or walking through a wax museum. Or anything Japanese. It's a seemingly perfect simulacrum of a cardboard cutout of the real thing. A dollhouse made to full scale. The unlit candle on the table said it all really. The lights weren't on, but someone's home.

Website
Hombre del Mundo
Nadrazni 21, Prague 5
257 326 902
Price: Less than 300 Kč